With so many great leather options, it can be difficult to choose! Photographs can convey only so much, so we’ve put together this list of the various leathers we use or have used. In addition to general information and any care considerations, we’ve done our best to describe the look and feel of the leather to help you decide.

All of our leather is vegetable tanned and full-grain. The one exception is Chromexcel, which employs a combination chrome and vegetable tanning process. Vegetable tanning is a very old, tried and true method using tree bark that results in durable and strong leather that breaks in beautifully. This is a process that requires a lot of time, skill, and labor. Some of the tanneries that create these high-quality sides of leather have been around since the 19th century.

 

Wickett & Craig

Pennsylvania

Traditional Harness
A vegetable tanned leather that has been hot stuffed with a blend of waxes, oils and tallows. It has a glossy finish thanks to a process called jack glazing.

Look & feel:
Beautiful surface that is anywhere between semi-glossy to glossy with a nice depth of color. Harness leather starts out with a firm feel that will wear in over time without losing its shape and structure.

Care:
This type of leather won’t require conditioning right away. Condition if it starts to feel dry, or if you’re wanting to break in or darken new leather.


English Bridle
English Bridle is vegetable tanned, drum dyed and hot stuffed.

Look & feel:
Characterized by consistent and deep color and a smooth surface that develops a subtle luster with use. Bridle leather starts out with a firm feel that will wear in over time without losing its shape and structure.

Care:
This type of leather won’t require conditioning right away. Condition if it starts to feel dry, or if you’re wanting to break in or darken new leather.


Horween

Illinois

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Dublin & Derby
These two leathers are vegetable tanned and infused with a blend of oils and waxes. Derby goes through the extra step of tumbling, which sets it apart by creating rugged patterns of the lighter pull-up color.

Look & feel:
Both Dublin and Derby have a softer feel compared to our other vegtan leathers. This is especially the case for Derby due to the tumbling. The surface tends to be fairly matte with a bit of shine, and has a slightly waxy feel.

Care:
Waxier leather generally won’t require as much in the way of conditioning - mainly if it feels dry, after cleaning, or if you’re buffing out scratches.


Chromexcel
This combination chrome and vegetable tanned leather from Horween is hot-stuffed with oils and waxes.

Look & feel:
Chromexcel is an incredibly rich and waxy leather. It’s soft and supple, and most colors exhibit a strong pull-up effect (where the color temporarily lightens due to pressure or bending which displaces the oils). This leather tends to have more stretch to it than vegetable tanned leathers. Chromexcel is so waxy that contact should be minimized with things such as paper and light colored clothing where leaching may be a concern! If you love this kind of leather, though, it’s well worth the bit of extra care - there’s nothing quite like the look and feel of Chromexcel.

Care:
Very waxy leather such as Chromexcel generally won’t require much in the way of conditioning - only if it feels dry, after cleaning, or if you’re buffing out scratches. When leather with a high wax content sits around without much use, some of the waxes will often rise to the surface. This results in a white, cloudy film known as bloom, which is normal and can be easily buffed off.


Hermann Oak

Missouri

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Natural Vegtan
Using tanning extracts derived from tree bark, Hermann Oak leather spends a month in the tanning process, resulting in leather that is durable and patinas beautifully. Because this vegetable tanned leather is not dyed or finished with oils and waxes, it’s a blank slate ready to take on dramatic character!

Look & feel:
Because it is not dyed or otherwise finished, this vegtan is initially anywhere between an off-white to a very light tan. Over some weeks or months, given exposure to sunlight and conditioning, natural vegtan will take on a rich honey brown color.

Starting out, it will have a stiffer feel and tends to have more of a matte surface. It will wear in over time, softening to a smooth buttery texture without losing its shape and structure. The evolution will continue as it darkens and burnishes in a way that reflects the wearer’s habits.

Care:
We condition natural vegtan before sending it to you, so you won’t need to do anything right away. Condition once or twice a year, and set in direct sunlight to darken.


Walpier

Italy

Buttero
Walpier is an Italian tannery known for their high-quality vegetable tanned leather. Buttero is available in a range of beautiful jewel-toned colors alongside the typical browns and tans.

Look & feel:
Buttero has a nice firm feel characteristic of vegtan along with a very smooth and clean matte grain/surface. With use, the surface takes on a bit of shine and a supple feel. Looks especially stunning when contrasted with earth-toned leather such as glossy Buck Brown Harness!

Care:
This type of leather won’t require conditioning right away. Condition if it starts to feel dry, or if you’re wanting to break in or darken new leather.